Monday, November 30, 2009
Thanksgiving, Corral, "NO! TANTO!" and "Panpo"
Last thursday was thanksgiving. This was the second year in a row that I was in a different country on thanksgiving, which is kind of unfortunate because thanksgiving is one of my favorite holidays. Nothing like a day when all you do is eat wonderful food and watch football. Sadly, for me, American football isn't very popular down here in Chile. And by not very popular I mean noone ever watches, noone knows anything about it, and it's almost impossible to find a game on TV. That is one of the few things I really miss about being in the US. Oh well. Last year when I was living in Canada during thanksgiving I decided to start my own little "I'm not in the US for thanksgiving" tradition. This tradition consists of going out and eating my favorite food, pizza. I figured that if I can't have turkey, then at least I'll have pizza. And since pizza is something found universally, I figure I will be able to maintain this tradition wherever I end up. So, after I finished up with everything in the office I went down the street to a local pizza parlor and ate a medium peperoni pizza. It was fantastic to say the least. Then I went back to the office with the hopes of being able to call home via skype so I could talk to the family. Unfortunatly, when I got to the office was only able to make a short 5 minute call to my dad before the internet decided to stop working. I waited around the office for a couple hours hoping it would come back online, but alas, it did not. So I was a bit disapointed. I had wanted to talk to everyone back home, and I was hoping to listen to a game online. Oh well, such is life.
Last friday was a bit more eventful. I started the day off right by sleeping in. At around noon I got a call from Victor. He asked me what I was doing and I told him I had nothing going on. He asked me if I wanted to go on a short 'travel' with him. I said yes and he told me to meet him downtown at 1:30. So I took a nice cold shower, got dressed and headed downtown. I had no idea what we would do or where we would be going, so I took the necessary items for adventure; sunglasses, rain jacket, pocket dictionary, camera, money, etc. I met up with Victor and we hopped on a bus to Niebla. Niebla is a small town about 20 minutes from Valdivia. On the ride Victor told me we were going Corral, a small town on an island close to Niebla. He had to do an interview at the local navy post for one of his classes. It all sounded pretty good to me, so I was happy.
It was a really nice day, lots of sunshine, warm temperature, everything you would want for an outing. One the ride to Niebla Victor acted like a good tour guide and pointed everything of interest out to me. Since he is tourism student, he's pretty damn good at this. He told me all about the history of the area, how it was an important Spanish sport a long time ago. Pointed out all the old fortifications and explained how they were used. When we got to Niebla we took a 20 minute ferry to Corral. The island is right at the mouth of the river, so on one side of us was the fresh water of the river, and on the other side you could see the pacific. Very beautiful area. While we were on the ferry Victor continued telling me about all the fortifications. He also told me about the earthquake and subsequent Tsunami that destroyed the area in 1960. I had heared a lot about this before that day. It was one of the biggest tsunamis recorded and destroyed most of Corral, Niebla, and even made its way all the way to Valdivia. There is still no working train system in Valdivia because all the tracks were destroyed in the tsunami almost 50 years ago. So I took it all with a grain of salt when we got to Corral and saw signs warning "Danger, Tsunami zone" and saw all of the signs for evacuation routes.
The first thing we did when we got there was go to the local fortification. It was very cool. Most of us was original, though there were some spots that had been restored. All the cannons were originals though, so that was really cool. After that Victor had to go and do his interview, so I wandered around the town for awhile. When he was done we decided that we needed food. By now it was about 4:30 and I was hungry. We went to a little covered restaurant/food shack and got some empanadas mariscos, empanadas full of different shellfish. They were great. Very fresh, in fact, I don't think they were prepared in any way until we ordered them. Plus they came with some sort of chile salsa that was incredible. I could feel it burning in my stomach for an hour after we ate it, really spicy. As Victor put it, it was manly food. After we ate we walked down the street to a pub and had some beer. The owner was an old guy and he and Victor told me Chilean jokes and we discussed such important issues as which actresses we thought were the most attractive. We wanted to have another beer, but unfortunatly the owner had to close up. So we went back and caught a ferry back to Niebla, then a bus back to Valdivia. When we got back it was decided that more beer was, in fact, exactly what we needed. So we went to a local bar near campus called tratomundos and had a couple more beers. Finally, at 8 Victor had to head back home. So we made plans to have a going away party the next weekend and went our seperate ways.
Saturday day was pretty uneventful. Marjorie was studying and I was doing school work most of the day. She put Fran to sleep around 9pm and continued studying. At around 10:30 she stopped, looked up at me and said, tonight we need to watch a movie and drink beer. I was, of course, in complete agreement. So I went to the store and bought six, one liter bottles of cheap Chilean beer. Six was way too much for just us, but one of her friends was going to come and join us later. So we hung out, drank beer and watched The 40 Year Old Virgin on my computer. I put on the Spanish sountrack and turned on subtitles in English. At around 1:30am Marjorie's friend, Carolina, showed up. Various beer fueled conversations then took place. The topics of which included life goals, family, school, then deteriorated into what we like about ourselves, what we didn't like, and eventually got to swear words in English, and the fact that 'according to her' chilean men were just not well enough endowed. All of this of course took place over several hours during the course of the entire night.
At around 3:30am we ran out of beer. Rather than call it quits for the night and escape with some semblence of well being and good health, it was decided that more beer was necessary. So we called a taxi, which bought the beer and then brought it to the house at a much inflated price. But we were having fun so it was all good. Around 5:30am Marjorie finally hit the wall and had to go to bed. I had not realized to what extent she was entoxicated until she stood up and almost fell over. We much effort she was able to stumble the entire ten feet to her bed and promptly pass out. This just left Carolina and me, though I was rapidly approaching the end of the line myself. She, however, seemed to be going strong. She seemed to just be hitting her stride, and I was inches from falling asleep where I sat. These Chileans really know how to stay up late and drink. My gringo blood just can't seem to get grasp on it. Yeah, I can stay up right there with them, but the next day is always terrible. We ended up sitting and talking until around 7:30am. Finally I had reached my limit and needed to get some sleep. She was staying with a friend a couple blocks away and asked me if I could walk her over there, which I did.
Stepping out into the sun at 7:45am after a night of drinking can only be desribed as really, really bright. I was fairly intoxicated by this point, and so things like sunglasses were beyond my cognative abilities. Carolina was tanked. I hadn't realized it until we got outside, but she could barely walk in a straight line. This fact became evident to me when she came outside, took two steps, and immediatly tripped on the curb and landed on her ass... all in what appeared to be slow motion. I of course laughed my ass off. We then proceeded to stumble down the middle of the street in the exact opposite of a straight line. I could have handled myself fine, but she could barely walk and needed support in this endeavor, which meant that the 5 minute walk turned into 15 minutes. We were walking directly into the rising sun at this point and could barely see. So she opened her umbrella and held it in front of us like a shield to block the sun.
So picture all of this. It's sunday morning at around 8am in a little nieghborhood on Isla Teja in Valdivia, Chile. There are two drunks stumbling down the middle of the street, a Chilena and a gringo. It is a beautiful morning, not a cloud in the sky, and they are holding an umbrella in front of them trying to block out the sun, but also making it so they can't see where they are going. It was a pretty good time. We finally got to where she was staying, said our goodbyes, and I went back to the house. This time it took me all of 5 minutes, and I walked nice and straight. I think I drank more than both of them, but I also went to bed the most sober. Hmmm. By the time I finally got into bed it was 8:15am, sunday morning. I passed out. And then got woken up at 10am when Marjorie came into the room looking for something with Fran. I have no idea what she was looking for, I was way too out of it. All I could do was lie in bed and stare straight ahead while I though 1. please leave so I can go back to sleep, and 2. I am going to hurt when I get up in a few hours. As soon as they left I fell back asleep and didn't wake up until 3pm, and then I had a massive headache. It's funny, in the US I never get headaches when I'm hung over, just nausea. Here I just get headaches. Must be whatever they put in the beer.
So that was pretty much my week. Nothing too spectacular, but some new experiences and some good stories. In another update, Marjorie has been trying to teach Fran to say my name, Ryan. Right now I am just 'tio'(uncle). She can't quite get the hang of Ryan though. She tries, but it always comes out something like Rahblahblah, which is pretty adorable. Also, for some reason, I am now called 'tanto' on a fairly regular basis. Tanto means dumb in Spanish. So whenever I try to do something I usually hear "NO! TANTO!" So it will look something like this, 'Hola Fran, quieres ducle?' (Hi Fran, do you want a snack?) "NO! TANTO!" At which point I put the treat on the table and she comes over and gets it. This all usually depends on how tired she is, but it's become pretty common. Marjorie- "Fran, say hello to uncle." Fran- (looks at me for a second, measuring me up) "NO! TANTO!" Me- "Fran, why am I tanto?" Fran- "TANTO!" If she wasn't so damn cute I may be offended, but as is, it's a constant source of ammusement for me.
The other day I had a very nice "Stupid Chilean moment". Chilean Spanish is full of slang. For example they will add the word 'po' to the end of another word to emphasize it. 'po' doesn't mean anything really. It is a shortened version of the word 'pues' which means 'well...' as in 'well, I could do that I guess.' So the other day we were getting ready to have 'once' and Marjorie asked me if I could go to the market to pick up a couple of things. So after she finished I ran back over the last and asked if I'd forgetten anything. To this she replied, "Y panpo." I sat there with a dumb look on my face for a moment and said, "Panpo?" She said, "Sí". "Qué es panpo?" I asked confused (What is panpo?) "Panpo, panpo." she replied. I mustered all of my Spanish speaking abilities and asked "huh?" Then the realization came to her, "Pan! Pan...po." And with that I felt nice and stupid. 'Pan' means bread. I knew this, but the 'po' threw me off. She started laughing and I pounded my forehead with my fist. Stupid Chilean Spanish. Two months and I still don't have the hang of it. maybe after two years, but two months just isn't enough. Oh well. Maybe someday. Hasta luego.
Friday, November 20, 2009
New Experiences and New Perspectives
After the classes ended I went and had some lunch with Marjorie, Dayanne and Roxan. Then I went back to my office to do some work for the next day. As I was getting ready to leave one of the other teachers came to my door. Her name is Paola and she is just a couple years older than me. She asked me if I had recieved the email that the secretary had sent out. I said no, so she told me that Raquel's mom had passed away, and there would be a wake at one of the local churches the next day and a funeral on wednesday. She then told me that she didn't want to go to the wake alone, and asked me if I could go with her. As sad as the situation was, I couldn't pass on an opportunity to see another facet of the culture here, so I agreed to go. We decided to meet the next day after classes, around 5pm.
The next day I had class with Ximena at 2pm. I went to school around 9:30am to do some work. When I got there Ximena came to my office to talk to me. She told me about Raquel's mom, and I told her I already knew. Then she asked me if I could teach her class by myself that day so that she could go be with Raquel. I said that it wouldn't be a problem. All the students were doing that day was giving presentations, so I thought I could handle it. Then she asked me if I could cover the next days class aswell. I said yes, so we talked for a minute about what I would do in the class, then she left. The class went fine that afternoon. We had some problems with the computer and the projector at first. But we were able to get everything worked out. The students gave their presentations, and when class was done I went back to my office to get ready to meet Paola.
I have never been to a wake before. Least of all a wake in Chile. I had no idea what to expect. I had no idea what to wear. Was this a formal event, requiring black clothes? What would I be doing, just sitting for some undisclosed time? I really had no idea what to expect. I walked to downtown and met up with Paola, and we started walking to the church. On the way we chatted about classes and things like that. When we got to the church we went and an said hola to Raquel. I was at once relieved to see that my attire, the clothes I had taught in, were acceptable. We gave out condolences to Raquel, Paolo put her flowers next to the open casket, and then we took our seats. At this point I didn't know how to act. I was under the impression that this was a grave, somber event, and that I should just sit there and stare at the wall or something. However, Paola quickly started speaking with me. We started talking about our lives, our schooling, our interests, that sort of thing. She told me that she had gone to Eugene, OR to study English. I told her that I'd grown up only 20 miles south of Eugene. We started telling stories and jokes. All of a sudden I realized that I was laughing and smiling no more than 15 feet away from an open casket, surrounded by the dead woman's family. Shit, I thought, and waited for some reprimand or bolt of lightning. Then I looked around, and everyone else there was doing the same thing that I had just been doing. This wasn't the grave and somber event I had expected. While being respectfully quiet, people were talking, and joking, and smiling and laughing. This really wasn't what I had expected, but such is the way of life to take our expectations and toss them aside like they mean nothing.
The next day I taught Ximena's class by myself, and I have to say that it went very well. The students told me that they really enjoyed it after class. So I was very happy. There is something very special about seeing you students start to understand a new concept. When you see that click, and the light of understanding is suddenly on their face, it's very nice. Thursday I went to another class and did a guest lecture. Great students in that class. Very responsive. I think they really enjoyed having me there. What's better, right before that class I ran into Victor for the first time in about a week. He had invited me out for that night previously because his best friend is a poet, and there was a poetry reading at another school in town that night. So after my class I ran home, took a nice cold shower, then went downtown and met with Victor at 6:30pm. We walked about a mile to the other school and went to the auditorium. It was a very cool experience. I had a hell of a time understanding half of what was being said, but occasionally I was able to comprehend what was going on and I was very impressed. Especially with Victor's friend Claudio. Very good poet.
So it has been a strange week. I taught my own classes, by myself, for the first time. I went to a wake. And I went to a poetry reading. Then to top it all off, last night Marjorie confided in me things about her life that I will not repeat on a public forum like this. Things that boke my heart and made me greatfull for the charmed life I have. Let me just say that that poor girl has not had it easy. Every once in awhile things happen in life, or we meet people, who change the way we think or the way we see the world. Well, I don't know how much effect last night's conversation had on me, but I know that it gave me a different perspective to think about. I am very greatfull for all the bessings I have had in my life. Too often it is too easy to feel bad when something goes wrong. It's too easy to not feel gratitude for what you have. Looking at my life I don't see how I can ever be justified in being unhappy. I have had amazing opportunities, and a loving, supportive family. I have always been lucky in life, things have always managed to work out. Part of that is my own faith that what will happen, will happen, and all we can do is make the best of it. But a lot of it has been luck. I am very fortunate to have the life I have, and I really hope I never forget that. Hasta luego.
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Pictures
From left to right: Marjorie, Dayanna and Roxan. Here we are at the mall enjoying some pizza. With all the great food here I don't miss pizza as much as I would have thought, but it is still great to have on occasion.
This picture was taken a couple hours after I got kicked out of the cabaña. Roxana, Me, Marjorie and Dayanne. In this picture we are walking from the University to Majorie's house.
Me with all my stuff at once. They were helping me with everything, but thought it would be funny to get a picture of me with everything.
This is Marjorie and Fran. I took this picture in the main plaza in Purranque.
Marjorie's mom, Fran and Me walking to the saturday market in Purranque.
Fran being adorable. Naturally this was a posed shot. Shortly after this she ran off screeching after a pigeon.
Marji and Me behind the bar at the Pub/Restaurant that her parents own.
So those are some pictures from my current life. Hope you enjoy. Hasta luego.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Purranque
An hour and a half bus ride with a two year old is an interesting experience. Especially when she doesn't want to be on the bus, and when she hasn't had a nap. So while Marji and I tried to relax and enjoy the bus ride, Fran was jumping around, kicking things, screeching, and just generally doing all she could to drive her mother insane. I feel sorry for the poor woman sitting in front of us. Fran, in a fit of rage, decided to kick the back of the seat continuously for ten minutes at one point. To say the least I was incredibly entertained. After an hour and half bus ride we made it to Osorno. Here we had to change buses. But first, for the sake of good manners, we went to the store so I could by some gifts for the family. Chocolate for her mom, wine for her dad, and a bottle of rum for her fiancee. I also bought a cake for Marjorie as a way of saying thank you for everything. At this she got a bit emotional. Going to school full time while raising a daughter on your own doesn't allow for much wiggle room in the way of money. In a town full of broke college kids, and coming from a family in a small town, money isn't treated lightly. So me spending money on her family, then her, meant a lot. She tried to protest, but after everything it was really the least I could do. And I intend to do more over the next month if opportunity presents itself, as I'm sure it will.
After we went to the store we waited for the next bus that would take us to Purranque. The was another experience alltogether. The problem is that Fran has no fear of anything. So, she will periodically run off into a crowd of people, laughing, while her mother chases after her with a terrified look on her face. This happened no less than three times while we waited for the bus. The bus showed up around 9 and we got in and left. Purranque is about 30 minutes south of Osorno, so the whole journey was about 2 hours by bus. It wasn't until we were about 15 minutes from Purranque that Fran finally fell asleep. When we got to the bus stop Marji's fiancee, Mauricio, was there to meet us. We shook hands and exchanged greetings then walked to the house.
Marji's parents own a Hospidaje/Restaurante/Pub. So the downstairs front of the house is the restaurant/pub. The rest of the bottom floor is their house, and the upstairs has rooms they rent out to people who need a cheap place to stay. The establishment is called Estrella (Star). When we got there the pub was nice and loud. The first thing we did was say hello to her parents. I greeted them, shook hands with her dad, Don Pancho, exchanged a kiss on the cheek with her mom, Señora Maria, as is the custom. Then I gave them their gifts. Her mom dug right in, and Mauricio opened the rum and gave me a nice tall glass of it. Damn good people, I liked them right away. We talked for a bit at first, me trying my hardest to understand what they were all saying. Purranque is a very small town. Most of the people never leave it, and most are from el campo, the country side. So they talk fast and they slur their words together. It was pretty difficult, but I held my own... I think. After we talked we had some food. Lots of soup and bread. Then we relaxed with a cup of coffee.
Sidenote: In the states I never drank coffee, I have never liked the taste of it. Here is a different story alltogether. If you don't drink coffee or tea you are a freak and should be shunned, or so it would seem. Every time I told people that I didn't drink either coffee or tea they would look at me like I was from another planet. They would usually then ask, well, then what do you drink. I would say, water, juice. To which they would reply, no, what do you drink that is hot? Nothing, I don't like hot drinks. This would them be met with confused and shocked faces, then they would go and share this strange fact with anyone who would listen. So I quickly learned that I should drink coffee if I wanted to be normal. I expiremented at first, and after various trials and errors with different combinations of ingredients, I have found that the only coffee that is in any way palatable for me plain, dark, black coffee. No sugar, no cream, the stonger the better.
After we had some food, and Fran was asleep, we went into the pub. It had quieted down some, but there were still maybe ten people there. All regulars, ranging from 30 to 70 years old. Marji quickly busted into the beer, which comes in big liter bottles. So we started having some beer, then Mauricio wanted to do some shots of the rum I bought him, so we did some shots. Thirty minutes later I was feeling pretty good about myself. This continued for the next several hours. We kept opening more beers and eventually broke into the kitchen for some food. From what I could tell there are two people who actually work in the pub. Mauricio, who handles all the money and other such matters, and a woman named Macarena. Macarena, aside from having a name that made me do a double take, is also a redhead, something strange for these parts. She waits on the tables, cleans up, and gets drunk. That's her job, take care of the patrons and and keep them company. This usually involves plenty of booze. On top of it all, she informed me that that night was her birthday. She was sloshed and kept trying to get me to dance with her. For those of you who have seen me dance, you can understand my protests. No way in hell I was going to go dance in a bar full of local, drunk, Chilean men. I was strange enough, being the only gringo they had seen in what I'm sure was a long time. I didn't need to add my akward lack of rythm to the mix. So I sat and talked and drank beer and ate completos (hotdogs) until, all of a sudden, it was 5:30AM. At that point I decided that sleep was in order and took off to bed. They had made up one of the rooms upstairs for me.
I awoke, feeling less than optimum, around 11:30. I was pretty tired but I didn't want to seem too lazy. So I got up, got dressed, and then made my way downstairs. I must have looked pretty aweful, because Marji kept telling me that I could go back to sleep if I wanted. I didn't want to be the lazy gringo, so I stuck around and had some food. Then Marji had to take her mom to the doctor. I declined the invitation to go, and went back upstairs to my room, to prepare a lesson, and promptly passed out for two hours. When I woke up I decided to start reading 'On the Road'. I read for about an hour before Marji got back. Then I went downstairs and had some food. This proved to be another interesting experience. I am really not sure what animal they came from, cow, calf, pig, but what we were eating whatever it was' legs. I won't lie and say that it was delicious. I was wierd, and I'm still not convinced that it was cooked, but I ate it with a smile on my face dammit. I also did what I could to fill up on bread dipped in Aji. After we ate it was again time to go into the pub. But this time we practiced good old fashioned moderation. This time I was spotted by a couple of old drunks who decided to talk to me. They hadn't seen many gringos so they enjoyed it. I can't rightly say what all they talked to me about, as I couldn't understand half of it. But I know it involved differences in the world, English, God, 9/11, War, and the end of the world in 2012. Wierd. I only had two beers, and it was off to bed by 1am. Of course, off to bed meant off to bed to read until 3am.
The next day was saturday. I got up at 10:00 and got ready to go. I enjoyed a nice cold shower, which is strting to grow on me... very refreshing, wakes you right up... then we went to the saturday market. Every saturday in Purranque the locals gather on the street near the town square, and have a kind of farmer's market. We enjoyed a nice mote con heusillo, which is a rehydrated pear in pear juice mixed with some kind of grain, then we had something else, but I can't remember the name. It was basically a little cake made of potatoe, dough and meat all mixed together then deep fried. Amazing. If I can find more somewhere in Valdivia I will. We bought a few other things, including a stuffed animal dog for Fran, some cheese, and some meat. Then we went back to the house. I went upstairs to read for a bit while Marji made lunch. She kept asking me if I was bored, and I had to explain to her that, no, I wasn't bored, no, I don't get bored very easily, and that if I disapeared for awhile upstairs it was just because I wanted to relax, and that sometimes I just like to be alone for a bit. She was concerned that I was bored and didn't like her family. I asured her that this was not the case, but that after listening to so much Spanish my brain just needed the occasional break.
The rest of the afternoon passed by rather quickly, I read some, ate some, talked some, relaxed some. At one point I helped Marji clean the windows of the restaurant. At around 7:30 Marji took me downtown with Fran so I could see a bit more of the city, not that there was much to see. Then, as usual, we went to the pub and had some beers and ate some empanadas. Macarena was nice and drunk by the time we went in. This would turn out to be the most interesting night in Purranque. As we sat behind the counter two things of note happened. First, a drunk came in and started yelling at everyone, then tried to pick a fight with another patron until Mauricio finally kicked him out. Then a deaf guy came in and tried to buy beer without having enough money. What followed was a series of interesting hand gestures as he and Mauricio tried to negotiate, finally deciding that he would just get whatever he could afford with the money he had.
After that ended Marji and I had to go and try to buy Vodka and Orange juice for the bar. This proved to be a challenge. It was 11:30 at night and all the stores were closed. Also, as it turns out, it is illegal for store owners to sell alcohol after 10:30pm. Add to that the fact that Purranque is a dangerous city at night, with lots of gangs, and the fact that I, as a gringo, stick out like a soar thumb most of the time. So it was an interesting experience. We had to take a cab to a store that was run out of a man's house. But he wouldn't sell us the Vodka because there was a police car parked down the block. So we had to find another store, this one had the Vodka, but not the orange juice. So we had to go back to the first store, but this time there were a bunch of people standing around and Marji wouldn't let me get out of the car with her. Finally, we made it back to the pub and went in. Macarena tried to get Marji to let her have some Vodka, but she said not unless someone bought it for her. So She begged me to buy her a drink, which I did. This may have been a mistake, as what followed was a series of stories involving her sexual excapades as a waitress in Santiago, and what I'm pretty sure was a propostion to me. All this was starting to get a little on the bizarre side, so I decided to call it a night and snuck off to my room to go to bed, where I read more, until about 3am.
I woke up the next morning at noon. I went downstairs and had some food, talked with everyone for a bit, had some coffee, then Mauricio's brother showed up with his wife and daughter. So while they all caught up, I snuck upstairs and took a shower. Then I relaxed and read until it was time for us to go. We were of course late again. We got to the bus stop just in time to catch the bus to Osorno. And we got to Osorno with only 5 minutes to spare before our bus to Valdivia left. It was a very rushed affair, but luckily, this time Fran was passed out, and made things go much smoother.
We got to Valdivia around 8pm. It felt like coming home. I was very happy. I feel much safer in Valdivia than I did in Purranque. I know Valdivia has its dangers too, but I don't stand out quite so much here. When we got back to the house I went to the market and bought some bread, meat and cheese for dinner. Marji and I talked over dinner and decided that it would be best if I just stayed with her for the next month. She likes the company, and it is much easier for me. We haven't decided on a price yet, and she hasn't asked for money, but I will pay her for the time I'm there. Overall I have to say that it has been a great experience so far. Purranque was a very interesting look into another side of Chile. While I can't foresee going back, I am certainly happy I had the experience.
If there is one thing I have learned so far by being here, it's that I never know what's going to happen. Who knows what's in store for us. The only way to make it through life is by being flexible and accepting what comes your way, then making the best of it. I have been very lucky here so far, but it could have been different if I hadn't been open to change. I don't know what will happen next, and I don't know where I'm going, but I can't wait till I get there. Hasta luego.
Thursday, November 12, 2009
The last few days have been pretty great. Yesterday was Roxan's birthday, so we had a small get together for her at Marjorie's house around lunch time. It was pretty cool because we all pitched in some money and bought stuff to make lasagna. Dayanne made the lasagna and I have to say that it was great. The guy is a damn fine cool.
Marjorie expressed some concern to me about the lack of accomidations at the house. Like I said in my last post, there is no heating other than a wood stove, there is no internet, and there is no hot water. I assured her that none of this was a problem for me and that I was just gratefull to her for letting me stay. The lack of heat and internet really isn't a problem for me at all. Nor is the small size of the house. My only issue is the lack of hot water. This is only an issue because I usually only have time to shower at night. In one of my first posts I talked about the cold showers I was taking in the cabaña. Well compared to what I have now that water was hot. Imagine going outside when it's 50 degrees and bathing with a hose. That is essentially the situation. Pretty damn cold, though I have discovered just how good the body is at producing heat. Please don't get me wrong, I am not complaining about this. I am fine with it. I am just happy to have somewhere to stay. I am just writing this to provide you with a nice glimpse into one of the more interesting facets of my current life.
As I mentioned before, Marjorie has a baby daughter and she is engaged. However, her fiancee doesn't live in Valdivia. He lives two hours south in a town called Purranque. This weekend Marjorie is going there to visit him and her family, who also live there. As it turns out, her fiancee wants to meet me. This is understandable, as I am living with his soon to be wife and daughter. I would want to meet me too. So I have been invited to go with her this weekend. We are taking the bus tonight and will be there until Sunday. I really have no idea what to expect, but I'm pretty excited for the new experience.
Everything at the University is going very well also. I have been getting more resposibilities and teaching more and more. Today I did a guest lecture in a class. It was pretty cool to teach an entire class. I had been teaching mini-lessons up to this point, but this was the first time I taught the entire class by myself. I really liked it. I got good responces from the students, so I was very happy.
Also, in regards to teaching, Marjorie told me something very nice yesterday. Having me living in her house has presented her with ample opportunity to practice her English. Yesterday we were talking and she told me that she feels much more confident about her speaking now. I was very very happy to hear this. When we had all first started hanging out outside of class she had been very timid about speaking English. Now, when she is talking to me, it is almost all in English. She is improving rapidly and I am very excited.
So that's about it for now. I don't think I'll have internet again until next monday. But when I get back I will post a new blog about my adventure this weekend. Until then, adios.
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Mi Vida Extraña (My Strange Life)
I woke up yesterday morning, business as usual. Shaved, took a shower, got dressed and readied myself to go to school. It was just as I was finishing that Estela came to the door. I opened it and she told me she needed to talk to me.
Now, a bit of back story. Because of my own lack of foresight and banks being a pain in the ass I am currently broke. I’ve been waiting for the bank to transfer money into my account for several days now. Since I have had no money I haven’t been able to pay Estela my rent money. I didn’t know this was a problem until yesterday. She had mentioned it in passing a couple of times. Something to the effect of, Do you have money in the bank yet? I would reply that I didn’t, but was expecting it anytime now. That was it. I thought that these questions were out of concern for my well being. It turns out they weren’t. Instead they were questions more to the tune of, where’s my money. While I was unaware that this was an issue, she was apparently harboring some resentment.
So when she came to the door and said that we had to talk I didn’t realize the gravity of the situation. Then she told me that she wanted me to give her my keys and that she wanted me out of the cabana by the end of the afternoon. I was, to say the least, surprised by this. In fact, I was completely blind sided. I didn’t expect this and I really didn’t see it coming. She then went on to tell me that she didn’t want to talk about it because I already knew the reason. Since, in fact, I didn’t know the reason I asked her why. She told me it was because I hadn’t paid her and that this was a problem and she wanted me out. So I apologized, and told her that I would go to class, then come back after and pack my things. I didn’t know where I would go, but I knew I couldn’t, and didn’t want to be there anymore.
I left and went to the campus for my class. Then I was very fortunate. On my way to class I ran into Marjorie. We talked for a moment and then I told her about my situation. She told me that she had some extra space at her house and that if I needed to I could stay there for a couple days while I figured everything out. So we made plans to meet later that day and we both went to our respective classes.
After class I went back to my office to try and figure things out. I wrote Estela a letter explaining things. I figured that as long as I’m here I might as well so my best to keep things civil. Then I went back to the cabana and started packing. It took me about an hour to get everything put together. I had no idea how I was going to get all my things to the campus. I was pretty sure that no colectivo would stop for me with all of my stuff, especially during the lunch hour rush. But Fortunately Estela decided to be civil and offered to take my things to campus for me. So I caught a colectivo and went downtown. While I was walking to campus I happened to run into Victor and Rocio. I told them about my new situation and not only did they offer me a place to stay, but they also offered to help me find a new place. I told them that I already had another offer, but that if that didn’t work out I would call them. I left them with my faith in Chileans restored.
I got to my office and tried to do some lesson planning, but I found it rather difficult to concentrate. Marjorie called me and told me that she, Dayanne and Roxan would come to my office at 5:30. Of course, in typical Chilean fashion, they were thirty minutes late. If someone from Chile tells you a certain meeting time, always add at least fifteen minutes, thirty is more common though. They showed up at my office at 6 and we talked about what had happened. It was agreed upon that Marjorie’s house was the best/only option, and that I could stay there provided I 1. Didn’t mind kids (she has a two year old) 2. Didn’t mind not having internet, and 3. Could live without hot water. I explained that 1. That sounded great. And 2. My only other option was sleeping under a bridge. This of course got a lot of laughs as they imagined me under a bridge. Thank God for friends.
It turns out that Marjorie lives a very close fifteen minute walk from campus, on Isla Teja. This was good because I had all of my stuff in my backpack, and it was pretty damn heavy. On the way we stopped and had a lady take some pictures of us. Then we went to Marjorie’s. Marjorie lives in, what they described as, the poor part of the island. I certainly wouldn’t call it modern, or well kempt, but this part of town certainly has some character to it. Naturally I loved it immediately. After I got my stuff into the house Marjorie showed me where I would be sleeping. Way nicer than what I had hoped for. I actually had a bed in a private room. I had expected a nice slab of floor. So this was going to be good living. After I got settled in Dayanne and Roxan left. Then Marjorie went to get her daughter Fran.
As it turns out Fran is ridiculously cute, and she has a ton of energy. So as soon as she got home she started running around, and basically doing everything possible to drive her mother crazy. The best part of it all, though, is that she calls me ‘Tio’. For those of you who don’t know Spanish, Tio means uncle. So picture an adorable little Chilean girl running around the house, terrorizing her mother, screaming ‘tio, tio, tio’ and laughing hysterically.
When Marjorie had taken care of Fran we all went to the store to buy some food for ‘once’. I tried to pay but Marjorie refused, telling me that I could buy the food tonight. I reluctantly agreed and we made our way home to eat. After we ate we hung out for a bit until Dayanne came back to visit. While Marjorie put Fran to bed, Dayanne and I went to the store and bought some beer. When we got back we sat around, drank some beer, and they practiced their English while I tried to explain English grammar in Spanish. I think Dayanne came over around 10:30, and didn’t leave until 2am. It was a lot of fun and I really enjoyed being able to speak with them in our nice mixture of Spanish and English. More importantly, I have already noticed a marked improvement in their speaking and listening skills. So I couldn’t be happier about that.
All in all it was a very interesting day. However, I’m actually kind of happy it has all worked out this way. The cabana was starting to get a little boring anyway. And this way I get to see another side of Chile. While finding a new place is going to be a pain in the ass, overall I am perfectly happy. I have to go now because Roxan’s birthday is tomorrow so we are going to go buy some things for her party. I will update the blog tomorrow. Hasta luego.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Why my Chilean Friends are Awesome
After that I had to go and work with Marcos, so we made plans to meet up in front of McDonalds (it's always our meeting spot) at 7:30. Not only were they nice enough to get a phone for me, but they also wanted to have me over for dinner/to help them study for a quiz they had on Thursday. So I met up with Victor t 7:30, Rocio was working till 10, then we got on a bus to go to Rocio's house. On the way there Victor asked me if I wanted to see his house and meet his family. Naturally I said yes, so we went to his house where I met his two younger brothers, 10 and 4, his grandmother, and his mom. It was great. Very friendly people, welcomed me into their home without hesitation. I talked to his mom for a bit, then we walked over to Rocio's house to wait for her to get off work. We talked for awhile and studied some English, then when Rocio got home we had some food. Really good bread with mashed avocado (I've been assured that this is different from guacamole because there are no other ingredients), Aji (hot chilly peppers), ham and cheese. Incredibly good. While we ate I helped them study. I ended up staying until 1:30am. It was a lot of fun. I am continually impressed by how nice, warm and welcoming chileans are. Very friendly and always willing to offer help when and where needed.
The next day they came to my office again, and with another present. This time it was a book of chilean slang. Under each others tutelage I am starting to get a hang of chilenismo, and Victor is becoming quite proficient in swearing in English. He has all the basics down now, it's pretty hillarious.
Victor and Rocio have been great. they took me out for my birthday, took me out for halloween, gave me a cellphone, introduced me to family, had me over for dinner, and they gave me book to help me understand their language better. Talk about friends. I can already tell that I will be staying in contact with them for a long time after I leave Chile.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Graffiti and Halloween
Then we walked down the street to the bar. It was everything you could want in a bar. Chill atmosphere, smoky, lots of tables, and good old fashion calssic rock coming out of the speakers. I was pretty damn happy. And randomly enough, the asian exchange students I had previously gone on a tour with were there too. That's when they told me that Graffiti is a band of older gentlemen who cover classic rock songs. As soon as they started playing I knew I was going to be happy. The beatles got the most play, but there were also classics like Piano Man, Rolling on the River, and House of the Rising Sun. It was awesome. And the guys were great performers. They got the whole bar in to it. Picture a bar full of Chileans, four asian exchange students, and me, the lone American, all singing the chorus to Hey Jude. Amazing. So much fun. Then, during an intermission, the lead singer came over to our table and to talk with us. As it turned out he didn't just sing songs in English, but also spoke English very well. So we had a nice conversation during which he told me all about how they had started, and why they played at that particular bar. It was pretty cool. So we hung out there until around 3am, listening to good music and talking. Then, Rocio was hungry, so we went and got completos, which are basically big hot dogs with all kinds of crazy stuff on them. After that it was time to head home to get some sleep.
Victor and Rocio
Me
Graffiti
Me and the Lead Singer
Singing and Dancing on a Table, now that's a good time.
Saturday was Halloween. Victor had to work again that night, but he got done at 9:30, so we made plans to go grab some beers. I went downtown and met up with him around 10. While we were walking to a bar we ran into his best friend Claudio, so we changed our plans and went with Claudio to a different bar. I can't remember its name, but it was really chill and relaxed, even more so than the one the night before. The beer was cheap, so we drank a lot of it. It was a lot of fun. They started teaching me Chilean slang, of which there is a lot, and of which I can't repeat here due to its inapprorpiate nature. Chilean Spanish is its own thing all together. They have so much slang, and such wierd pronunciation that I have a hard time keeping up a lot of the time. So hanging out with Victor and others has been great. I'm finally starting to get to the point where I can actually understand what they are saying most of the time. But it's still really hard and takes a lot of concentration on my part.
Despite the large quantity of beer I drank the night before, I woke up Sunday feeling pretty damn good. I had thankfully avoided pisco during the course of the weekend, and so I was feeling well. Sunday afternoon I went and met up with Dayanne and Roxan. I had hung out with them the weekend before and we'd had a good time. So I was pretty happy to get to hang out again. Unfortunatly Marjorie was out of town, so she wasn't with us. We went to the botanical garden on campus and sat in the sun for a couple hours and talked. It was a very nice, rare, sunny day, so we took advantage. I really enjoy talking with them, it's a great way to learn the language and the culture. And we all seem to get along really well. Aslo we went and got pizza. Anyone who knows me know how happy that made me. That was pretty much all I did on Sunday, but it was a good day.
Now, ten things I have come to realize about food since coming here. 1. My new favorite apatizer is half an avacado, filled with diced hard boiled egg where the pit used to be. 2. My new favorite dessert is a sliced up banana in yogurt. 3. Pizza is even better after you haven't had it in three weeks. 4. Empanadas are amazing, no matter what they are filled with. 5. Pisco kills. 6. While you would think it was gross, Cochoyuyo (seaweed/kelp something), is actually really good. 7. Maybe I don't hate fruit and vegetables as much I previously thought. 9. Aji makes everything better. 10. Chilean wine is incredibe.
So that's it for now. Things are continuing to go great, but the time is going way to fast. I only have a little over a month left here, and I'm pretty sad about that. I really hope I can come back someday. Amazing country. Hasta luego.
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